I first learned of Cantillon beer, the most traditional lambic beer in Belgium, through The Art of Eating. Four and a half years ago, I posted about a visit to the Brussels brewery—though I warn you that I squirm and wince when I read my earlier writing. My respect for the van Roy family's commitment to tradition and artisan techniques has only grown in that time. When my editor at the Chronicle suggested I pitch him beer stories, I jumped at the chance to write about this unusual brewery. My article appears today.
If you've never tasted Cantillon, you've probably never tasted real lambic. Cantillon is sour. Its fruit beers are bone-dry. The brewery does not cut corners. Forget Lindeman's or other industrial brews; Cantillon is a beer unlike any other.
This assignment gave me the chance to get to know Cantillon again, and I think I'll be stocking up. If you're in the Bay Area and want to try some, the Toronado has a larger-than-normal selection as part of their Belgian Beer Month.
